The is great until it isn’t. One moment you’re enjoying a warm bowl of beef stew. Next thing you know, your white shirt and beige carpet are oiled. It happens quickly. This must be done before the oil solidifies and binds to the fibers and grain.
The strategy changes depending on the what the soup hit. Meat-based soups carry oils and proteins than vegetable soup. Here we tackling the meat-based messes. These are the grease-heavy culprits. It requires special tools and quick reflexes.
Delicate and semi-delicate fabrics
Acetate, rayon, silk, wool, triacetate and even synthetic carpets require immediate attention. Time is your enemy. The more time passes, the more difficult it is to remove stains.
First, wipe the area with a sponge. Use cool water. Do not rub. The friction forces the oil deep into the fabric structure. Instead, use an understatement that works outward from the center of confusion. This containment technique prevents the stain from spreading.
If water alone doesn’t help, you have two options. You can use a wet spotter. Alternatively, you can add a few drops of ammonia. Ammonia breaks down the proteins found in meat stains. Ideal for synthetic carpets and wool blends. Avoid getting ammonia on the silk. It can damage delicate fibers.
After using the remover, cover with an absorbent pad. Keep moist. If the pad lifts the color, replace it. Do not let the stain dry. It will set.
Rinse the area with cool water. All traces of ammonia must be removed. The residue will attract dirt later.
Washable cotton/synthetics
Acrylic, cotton, linen, nylon, polyester, spandex and olefins are can handle more aggression. These materials are tough.
Try washing it with cool water first. Fresh stains usually require a thorough wash. If ghosting still occurs, switch to the soak method.
Stir the solution. You need one quart of warm water. Add half a teaspoon of liquid detergent. Add 1 tablespoon of ammonia. Leave the stained area in this mixture for 15 minutes.
tamp the fabric after soaking. Use a brush for light strokes. Or scrape it lightly with a blunt tool. I’m trying to lift the caked-on residue. Wipe dry often with a clean pad. Continue this process until the stain disappears.
Wash thoroughly. Check for ammonia smell. If it lingers, rinse again. Ammonia residues can cause the fabric to discolor over time.
Hard surfaces: plastic, metal, stone
Alabaster, aluminum, copper, cork, linoleum, marble, paint, plexiglass, polyurethane, porcelain, stainless steel, vinyl and asphalt are simpler. There are no fibers to trap the oil.
Wipe up spills with a sponge dipped in warm, soapy water. The soap penetrates the oil. Rinse with clean water. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. that’s it. No need to soak. No ammonia. Just clean and dry.
For porous stone materials such as bluestone, brick, concrete, flagstone, granite, limestone, sandstone, slate, and terrazzo, the method is slightly different.
Wipe off the initial mess with cool water. If the stain remains, use a stiff-bristled brush. Soak in warm water mixed with washing soda or detergent. Do not use regular soap. Soap forms a film on the porous stone that attracts dust.
Brush the stain upwards and lift it onto the paper or cloth. Rinse thoroughly. Allow the stone to dry completely.
Carpets and rugs
Synthetic and wool carpets require careful handling. You don’t want to cause ring stain.
Start by Blotting as much liquid as possible. Use a clean towel. Press down. Do not rub.
Wipe the area with cool water. If the stain is difficult to remove, use a commercial remover. Spot Shot, Stain-X or Up & Out work well. Follow the instructions on the package exactly. Do not use Up & Out on wool.
If you prefer the DIY method, mix one teaspoon of mild detergent with half a cup of warm water. Apply a small amount to the stain. Blot. Do not push the solution too deep into the backing. Continue until no more color transfers to the pad.
Rinse with water. Place an absorbent pad over the area. Put a heavy weight on top. This will squeeze any remaining moisture out of the fibers. Wait until the pad is dry. Then remove it. Allow the carpet to dry completely to prevent the mold.
Leather and suede
Leather and suede are unforgiving. Water stains can ruin the finish.
Wipe off excess liquid. Then use a cleanser made specifically for leather. Tannery Vintage Leather Cleaner and Conditioner is a solid choice. Follow the label.
Alternatively, you can create a foaming solution. Mix dishwashing liquid with hot water. Swish it to form a thick foam. Just dip a cloth into the foam. Wipe the surrounding area. The foam removes grease without soaking the leather.
Wipe dry with a clean cloth. Just apply to the skin and then use a conditioner or saddle soap. This restores the oil that was spilled during the cleaning process. Fiebing’s Saddle Soap is a classic choice.
Wooden surface
Wood is sensitive to moisture. I want to remove dirt without distorting the finish.
Wipe with a clean cloth moistened with warm soapy water. Rinse quickly with a damp cloth. Dry immediately.
Polish or wax the area as soon as possible. This seals the grain and prevents future leaks.
Create your own observer
Business Observer is useful. However, you can make it at home with a few simple ingredients.
Dry point meter
Mix 1 part coconut oil and 8 parts liquid dry cleaning solvent. You can buy coconut oil at a pharmacy. Store the mixture in a container with a tight lid. This prevents the solvent from evaporating. You can use mineral oil instead, but it is less effective.
Warning: Dry cleaning solvents are toxic. It is also flammable. Keep away from heat sources and children.
Wet point meter
Mix one part glycerin and one part white dishwashing liquid. Add 8 parts water. Shake well before use. Store in a plastic squeeze bottle for ease of use.
We have already talked about fatty soups. Vegetable soups contain various acids and pigments. They need a different approach. This discussion continues in the next section. Next, check your pantry to see if you have these essentials. You never know when you’ll need it.
Vegetable soups do not color as strongly as thicker soups. But don’t let this lull you into a false sense of security. It still packs a punch against delicate surfaces like polyester or your favorite ceramic mug. Lunch spills happen. The goal is to avoid leaving permanent marks on your life and clothes.
Here are step-by-step instructions on how to handle these awkward situations.
Delicate and semi-delicate fabrics: acetate, viscose, silk, wool
First, remove excess liquid immediately. Do not rub. Friction simply forces the soup deeper into the fibers.
Wipe away the dirt using a dry cleaning solvent such as Afta Cleaning Fluid. The technique matters here. Gently wipe from the center of the stain outwards with a damp pad. This prevents the ring effect.
Next, apply a dry stain remover to the stain. Cover it with an absorbent pad moistened with the same dry stain remover. Let it sit. Add more solution as needed to keep it moist. Change the pad whenever color appears. It actually pulls dirt out of the fabric and into the padding.
After the discoloration has disappeared, flush the area with the dry-cleaning solvent.
Durable Synthetics and Natural Blends: cotton, linen, nylon, polyester and elastane
First, wipe off the excess. Next, use dry cleaning solvent, K2r stain remover or Afta Cleaning Fluid on the sponge.
Apply a dry stain remover and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with the solution. Let it sit. Change the pad when it absorbs dirt. Keep the affected area moist.
Rinse with a liquid dry cleaning solution.
If dirt remains, you will need to bring out the heavier artillery. Add a few drops of dish soap and a few drops of ammonia. Tamp or scrape the area to remove any residue. Keep the mixture moist and blot occasionally with an absorbent pad.
Finally, rinse thoroughly with water. All ammonia must be washed away. Wash the item or let it air dry.
Hard surfaces: plastic, glass, ceramics, porcelain, stainless steel, vinyl
Wipe up spills immediately. Wipe the surface with a cloth or sponge dampened in warm soapy water. Wash thoroughly. Dry with a clean towel. Simple. Effective.
Porous Stone and Masonry: brick, concrete, granite, slate, terrazzo
Remove excess liquid. Clean the area with a detergent and water solution or detergent. Never use regular soap.
Scrub with a sponge or soft-bristled brush. Rinse the area thoroughly. Allow to dry completely.
Leather and suede
Blot any excess carefully. Do not rub.
Mix a mild detergent with warm water. Swish it to create a high volume of suds. Here is the trick: apply only the foam with a sponge. I want the cleaning power of soap without soaking the leather in water.
Wipe dry with a clean cloth.
If a greasy stain lingers, apply an absorbent such as cornmeal. Let it sit for a long time. Brush or shake it off gently. Repeat if necessary.
For leather only, follow up with a conditioner such as Tannery Vintage Leather Cleaner & Conditioner or Fiebing’s Saddle Soap to keep the material from drying out.
Wood
Wipe up any excess spills immediately. Wipe with a cloth dipped in warm sudsy water.
Rinse with a cloth moistened with clean water. Polish or wax the surface as soon as possible to restore the finish and protect it from future moisture.
Soup is a delicious dish. Whether it’s hot or cold, side dishes or main dishes, the goal is to keep the mess on the plate. These steps will help you leave the liquid lunch where it belongs.
Can I use bleach to remove soup stains from colored fabrics?
In general, it is not recommended to use bleach on colored fabrics. It can cause significant discoloration. Opt for a color-safe bleach or a mild detergent solution.
How can I prevent them from sticking before cleaning the soup stains?
Wipe off excess cooking stains immediately with a clean cloth to prevent cooking stains from sticking. Rinse the area with cold water as soon as possible. Time is the enemy here.
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